B
Borisgoodenough
底特律 / 東密西根40則評論
- 整體 4
- 食物 4
- 服務 4
- 氛圍 5
I've reviewed Cliff Bell's before, but wanted to update because the food has improved significantly since our last visit.
But start with this: no one goes to Cliff Bell's specifically for dinner. You go for the amazing (and completely authentic) art-deco ambience and the equally-wonderful jazz on the stage. The bistro-style food, while not incidental, has always been the least of the reasons to walk in the door.
And I'm guessing that's why, over the years, the owners have let the food been hit or miss. Sometimes it's on target, as when former chef Matt Baldridge ran the kitchen. Other times -- well, we came for the music, anyway.
This time, we ordered mussels, grilled swordfish, and braised short ribs. And everything worked. Especially the ribs, slathered with a savory mustard sauce that contradicted everything Provencal I normally prefer in braised ribs, but were fall-apart tender and wonderfully flavorful. The swordfish, a dish that's far too easy to dry out, was spot-on moist. And the mussels were decent, although I prefer real bread alongside, as opposed to the few stingy slices of toasted baguette they supplied to sop up the broth.
A couple of quibbles about prices, because they're up significantly. Few entrees are under $30, and $43 for lamb chops is highway robbery. This isn't a chop house, and shouldn't have prices like one. Like so many music venues, wine bottles are also overpriced, which may be OK if you're just having beverages during the music, but less-good for dinner.
Cliff Bell's continues as a first-order "place to go" in downtown Detroit -- especially if you're a jazz fan. But note that you can only reserve a table if you're having dinner; otherwise, it's first-come, first-seated, which means you may find yourself standing at the bar on a busy weekend night.